Knitted Sweater Exchange

Our first-ever project exchange! Why didn't we think of this before? This was such a fun project. It's a simple pattern, fun way to bust some stash yarn, and went so quickly that it was easy to stay motivated. We each started our own sweater's bottom portion and when we reached the top lace yoke, we mailed them to each other to finish! That way we got something we liked, we got a surprise, and we got to use up some yarn on something that wasn't ours!

This is the sweater I finished for Dana, and she will post about mine when she's done, I can't wait to see it!

It was so fun, we will definitely be doing this again!

-Betsy

Color Block Shirt Part Two

The second part of the Color Block Shirt Tutorial will teach you how to adjust your shirt, put on the bias binding around the neck, make and attach the sleeves and hem the bottom!

After you have sewn up the sides and shoulder seams, it's a good time to adjust the fit. I put my shirt on wrong side out and pinned the sides in a little under the armpit. I also measured the armhole opening and wanted it a little bigger, so I pinned my cutting line as shown.

Now you can cut your bias binding out of the sheer poly used for the top. Cutting on the bias means cutting at a 45 degree angle to the grain of the fabric
 

Here's a picture of how to sew the bias strips together for a longer piece. I used a "sharp" needle in my machine for sewing the sheer so it didn't snag the delicate fabric.
 

Next, pin the bias binding around the neckline.  Make sure you pin with the right sides together, meaning the right side of the shirt should be facing out, and the bias binding should be facing down toward it (so that the finished side of the bias seam is facing the shirt). I started sewing at one end, and left a 2" tail so that when I ended, I could fold the tail over on top of the part I already sewed, and overlap the end on top of that for a nice clean finish.



Here I am sewing the binding on right sides together.



Now fold the binding over itself to the inside, to hide all the raw edges. Sew it down, stitching close to the inside edge as shown. I moved my needle over to the left position so I could stitch as close to the left side of the binding as possible.

 

Cut two identical sleeves as shown above. The right side is folded over, and tapers about 1/2" to the left on both the top and bottom. Pin the left (open) edge and sew. No need to worry about finishing your seam allowance as it will get hidden in the sleeve.

After sewing the side closed, fold the sleeve in half long ways, so the long sides and raw edges match up. You can baste these together if you wish, or just pin the two sides to the armhole sleeve (right sides together)- keeping the seam you previously sewed on the bottom of the armhole (at the side seam).

Sew around the armhole and finish your seam allowance to secure your sleeve!

I hemmed the bottom of the shirt using a twin needle (for a more decorative and stretchy! finish). You can serge the bottom edge too, then fold it in and sew it down! To use the twin needle, I folded the bottom in about 1/2" then over another 3/4" for a finished hem. Then I pinned and sewed close to the inside edge of the fold on the RIGHT SIDE of the shirt- otherwise, your two rows of stitching won't be seen on the outside!

 

Your finished Color Block Shirt!

 

Color Block Shirt Tutorial Part One

Echo Bike Products New Color Block Shirt
This simple knit top will be part of Echo Bike Products line on etsy! This tutorial will enable you to make your own in whatever size you wish! The Echo version will have a little something special and will be available in a variety of color blocks to choose from!

Me wearing my Echo Bike top- it's stretchy to allow for easy movement whether you're riding your bike, or just lounging around. The fit is loose and breezy and looks great on you no matter what!



The fabrics I chose for the first Color Block Shirt: a turquoise poly stretch for the top, an organic lace knit for the middle and a grey heathered knit made in Canada for the bottom. You can rearrange the color blocks depending on your style!
The pattern requires 1/2 yard of each fabric.



Drafting the pattern:
I cut out a square from pattern paper that was as long as my shoulder to hip, and as wide as I wanted around my waist (which was 22" tall by 24" wide). Then I measured from the tip of my shoulder (where I wanted to sleeve to sit), to under my armpit for the armhole measurement of 9". I folded the paper in half vertically to find the center, and measured from the tip of one shoulder to the tip of the other. I made two marks equidistant from the center. Next I measured 2" from the tip of my shoulder to the inner top neck line for the shoulder measurement. Then I measured vertically from the inner mark to where I wanted the neckline to fall which was 6 1/2". This gave me the gentle slope for the neck. In order to make the shoulder fit well, I tapered 1" down from top neckline to tip of shoulder. I drew all my lines, connecting the marks I had made previously!
* The armhole slope is a kind of half U shape
* The back neck curves the same as the front, but I made it 4 1/2 " higher than the front.

Now cut out the pattern pieces and fabric!
The top pieces (colored shear) are 5" from neckline top to where they stop, the middle section (lace knit) is 12" high, and the bottom piece (heathered knit) is what is left over. Cut out all the pattern paper pieces and lay them on the fabric, so the fabric is doubled. This way you cut out the front and back at the same time! Note how I added my 1/2" seam allowance all the way around as I cut out my fabric pieces.



Here is the top front pattern laid on top of the shear colored poly. I added the 1/2" seam allowances all the way around when I cut out the fabric. You can add the seam allowances to the individual paper pattern pieces after you cut them out by re-tracing them onto another sheet of paper if you want before you lay them over the fabric.

Here is the middle piece laid on the fabric before I started cutting out the fabric.

Cutting out the back top. I weighted down my pattern pieces rather than pinning because the poly stretch is thin and tends to slide around!

Now let's start putting your shirt together!
Start by pinning the front middle to front bottom, and do the same for back pieces. Since all the fabrics are stretchy, I used my serger, but you can also use your regular sewing machine- just set your stitch to "stretch straight", or use a long straight stitch. Always use a ball point needle when sewing with knits!
*Don't forget your seam allowances are 1/2"!



Sewing the middle to the bottom using a regular sewing machine, ball point needle and poly thread.



Serging the seam allowance

Pressing the seam allowance toward the top

Now pin the sides together, placing the "right" sides together. Serge or sew the sides.

Pinning the top at the shoulder seams

The serged shoulder seam

Now, with right sides together, pin and sew the top to the middle!
*When you pin the back top to back middle, there will be a curve where the neckline was cut out of the middle. Just pin the top to the middle at the lowest point of the curve in the center and trim off the excess middle fabric to form a straight line.


That's the end of Part One! We'll finish with Part Two next week, and add the binding around the neck as well as the sleeves! See you then!