Felted Bucket Bag

After seeing so many people around Santa Cruz carrying big baskets as purses and project bags, I decided I needed a version for myself. I LOVE this bag because it is so big and sturdy I can stuff anything in it and it all stays organized and awesome! The bag is fully lined and has an optional fair isle stranded color work pattern. I based my design for the imagery on the lining fabric which reminded me of creatures you might see in a tide pool! I'm happy to be bringing my readers the pattern for this bag for free! I designed the entire thing myself for someone with basic knitting skills (except for the colorwork- you probably need a bit more experience for that), and basic sewing skills.

 Here's me loving my new bag!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 Color work pattern after felting. The design becomes much more readable after felting which is one reason I love to felt! (and love my washer/dryer!)

 Here are some closeups of how I stitched the lining to the felted bag with a plain old whip stitch.

And now, the part you've all been waiting for, the Felted Bucket Bag pattern:

Felted Bucket Bag

Materials:

Yarn: Cascade 220, Main color: #8393 4 skeins

Color B: #8011 1 skein

Color C: #9566 1 skein

*All Knitting is done with 2 strands of yarn together

Needles: Straight size 10

Medium sized stitch holder

Darning needle, embroidery needle (to sew lining to bag after felting)

¾ yard lining fabric, preferably cotton or linen for durability

1 yard stiff 1 sided fusible interfacing such as Peltex

*Bag will shrink approximately ½ size after felting

*Finished size is 19 ½” x 19 ½” x 9” BEFORE felting.

AFTER felting, finished size is 12” x 14” x 8”.

Knitted Bag

Gauge: 13 st. x 22 rows =4” in St. st before felting

Front:

With main color, cast on 58 stitches. Work in Stockinette Stitch (St. st.) for 9”.

Work optional pattern according to chart for 14”, or solid St. st. for 14”.

Switch to color B and work 4 rows of St. st. Switch to color C and work 8 rows of St. st. Bind off all stitches.

Back and sides:

Cast on 116 stitches (29 for left side, 58 for back, 29 for right side)

Work in St. st. for 14”. Switch to color B and work 4 rows of St. st.

Switch to color C and work 8 rows, end with a wrong side row.

Handle:

Work 29 Stitches for left side and place stitches just worked onto holder.

Bind off 58 Stitches for back. Work last 29 Stitches for right side.

Row 1 WS: Purl all Stitches

Row 2 RS: K1, Slip two stitches purlwise one at a time, return the slipped stitches back to the left needle, and knit those at the same time through the back loop. Knit to last 3 stitches, Knit two together, K1.

Repeat last 2 rows until there are 13 stitches left. Work St. st. for 22”. (For a longer handle, work for 24”). End with a WS row.

Switch to color B and work 2 rows in St.st. Switch to Main color and work 2 rows in St. st.

Row 1 RS: K1, M1 (Insert tip of left needle from front to back into the strand between the stitch on the left and right needle. Knit this as a stitch [the stitch will appear twisted so as not to make a hole]).

Knit to last stitch, M1 same as before. K1

Row 2 WS: Purl all stitches

Repeat last 2 rows until there are 29 stitches left, end with a WS row.

AT THE SAME TIME

Switch to color B and work 4 rows. Switch to Main color and work 2 rows. Switch to color B and work 8 rows. Switch to main color and work 2 rows.

Finish:

Graft live stitches from stitch holder to stitches just worked using Kitchener Stitch,

OR

Slip stitches from stitch holder onto another needle and bind off with a Three needle Bind off.

Sew sides to front, and bottom flap to bottom of sides with the large tapestry needle and 1 strand of yarn using a mattress stitch.

Felting:

Put the finished sewn bag into the washing machine on the lowest water level, and the highest temperature. I throw in a pair of jeans or something heavy to help with the agitation. Before it gets to the spin cycle, stop and check to see if you are happy with the tightness of fibers. (I threw mine in for two cycles). You can do more cycles to get more felting. Then pull it out before the spin cycle and throw it in the dryer on high for a few minutes to get it even more felted.

*if you totally dry it, there might be unwanted creasing, so I took mine out before it was fully dry and put a paper grocery bag in it to keep the shape I wanted while letting it dry all the way.

Lining

Cut 2 pieces of Peltex 12” x 14” for front and back. Cut 2 pieces of Peltex 12” x 8” for sides.

Cut one piece of Peltex 8” x 14” for bottom. Cut one piece of Peltex 2 ½” x 26” with a flare for the strap. Flare starts from the bottom at 8” and tapers up to 2 ½” over 3” vertically on both sides.

Cut 2 pieces of Lining fabric 13” x 15” for front and back. (Seam allowances are ½”).

Cut 2 pieces of Lining fabric 13” x 9” for sides.

Cut one piece of Peltex 9” x 15” for bottom. Lay the Peltex strap piece over the lining fabric and cut out a piece of lining fabric 1/2 “ bigger on all sides.

Fuse the pieces of Peltex to the Lining fabric, leaving ½” seam allowances on all sides.

*if you want pockets like mine, cut two pieces of lining fabric 15” x 9”. Finish one long edge on each for the top of the pockets. Turn under the bottom edge and press. Then pin on to the front and one to the back so the side raw edges match and the top finished pocket edge is about 1 1/2” from the top of the lining. Stitch the bottom edge of the pocket and to make a sectional pocket, stitch another line down the middle vertically from the top of the pocket to the bottom.

Sew the lining pieces together, first sides to front and back, making sure to catch your pocket sides as well, then sew the bottom on, pivoting at the corners. Go slow and be patient!

Place the lining inside the bag and pin in place. Put the handle lining and bag handle together and adjust the alignment, slipping the lining between the bag lining and bag (so you can’t see the raw edges).

Whip stitch the lining to the bag with polyester sewing thread doubled and a small tapestry needle.

Enjoy your bag!

Optional Color Chart

The ten minute skirt

If you're like me, you look through your closet and never seem to find anything to wear! I have a solution. Make the ten minute skirt! All you need is about 5/8 yard of fabric, some elastic and your sewing machine!

Here are the super easy directions. Seriously, this skirt went so fast, I have to make 10 more!

So that's it! You can make the length of your "ruffle" shorter by cutting off the edge of the fabric, or using a fabric that is 54" wide or smaller. It is important though, that it is knit fabric, or something with a little stretch, otherwise, you won't be able to pull the skirt on! Good luck!

Adding Fabric to your knitted scarf

For a sophisticated looking scarf that adds structure and showcases your fancy lacework, try adding a fabric backing. Since I made my scarf 54" long, I found a fabric that was 56" wide (so I only had to cut a quarter yard at the fabric store, saving money!). This also gives me extra inches for turning over the hem, making a nice neat edge.

Start by laying out your blocked scarf nice and flat, stretching out the sides so the lace appears as you want it to end up looking. Then fold over the edges of your fabric on all sides (I started with the long sides and folded the short ends after) and press with a hot iron. Since I used a lightweight cotton shirting, I could set my iron on the highest setting and steam the hems for extra crisp edges. If you use a different fabric make sure you know what type it is, cotton and linen can withstand high temps, but wool and silk are prone to burning and anything synthetic could melt at high temps. (You can use a knit too, like cotton or wool jersey and you don't even have to fold over the edge! Just cut the strip the same width and length of your scarf!)

After pressing, lay the scarf wrong side up (the side you don't want to show) and place the fabric wrong side down (so the clean side without the hem is facing up). Then I pinned them together with plain straight pins so they didn't wiggle and pull out of place while I was sewing. I whip stitched the ends together starting at one end and went all the way around the outside so my stitches were almost invisible.

To whip stitch, insert your needle in between the knitted part and the fabric at one end (so your knot doesn't show on the outside) then come up through the fabric. Catch the strand of yarn directly opposite where you just came up, insert the needle back into the fabric and poke it up about a quarter to half inch down the top of the fabric in one stitch, so you hardly see any of the thread.

Once you've attached your fabric to the scarf, you can leave it as is if the fabric is stiff and doesn't bag away from the knitted part. Mine was a little too drapey, so I took some embroidery thread that I got at Hart's Fabric in Santa Cruz, and stitched a line running stitches down the scarf in four rows. This added a decoration to the back of the scarf (since I used a contrasting color thread) and kept both sides of my scarf hanging nicely together!

Summer Lace Scarf

This lace scarf is perfect for beginning lace work! It knits up so fast, especially if, like me, you use size 10 needles and sock or sport weight yarn. I used Madeline Tosh Superwash Merino Sock. Madeline Tosh is hand dyed and so beautiful, it flows through needles like butter! If you wanted your scarf smaller, with a tighter gauge, just use size 4 or 5 needles. If you want to beef it up for more Fall weather, try a worsted or DK weight yarn.

To begin, cast on 21 stitches. Work the lace pattern following the chart repeating rows 1 through 16 until the scarf reaches 54" (or your desired length). Below is the chart of the lace pattern, inspired by a sweater panel from "French Girl Knits" by Kristeen Griffin-Grimes.


The stitches are pretty straightforward with the exception of the three stitch decrease. Here is a picture of the step for slipping two stitches knitwise,

and here is what the stitch looks like after knitting the next stitch, and passing the two slipped over,



 

I like this decrease because it lets the middle stitch sit in front for a cleaner more even look.
Here is a picture still on the needles (before blocking).



Once you reach your desired length, bind off all stitches on the right side, knitwise and weave in the loose tails on either end of the scarf. Then block the scarf. I like to use a damp towel over the piece with an iron set between wool and cotton. This will help your scarf lay flat and show off all your hard work!

Now you can either wear your scarf, or add an extra touch by sewing a lightweight backing fabric to the wrong side, making it a bit more structured. I'll show you how on my next post! Another great advantage to using the Madeline Tosh yarn (which I bought at Hart's Fabric in Santa Cruz!) is the yardage is so great you can knit two scarves! one plain and one with a decorative fabric backing. Check back soon to learn how.